Now make sure that the AirTap™ unit works correctly before installing it.
1) Plug the unit into a typical household 110V plug and let it run for 5 to 6 minutes. Touch the heating copper tube in the back and feel the heating taking place.

2) Unplug the AirTap™. If the copper tube was hot to the touch and you heard the quiet humming of the fan, the AirTap™ unit is functioning perfectly and is ready for installation. MAKE SURE NOT TO RUN THE AIRTAP™ UNINSTALLED FOR MORE THAN 10 MINUTES.

Now you are ready to prepare the water heater for installation.
1) Turn off the electricity to the water heater. Use a tester or voltmeter to ensure that the circuit to the water heater is powered down.
In case of a gas/propane water heater, turn off the gas/propane valve.

2) Turn off the cold water inlet to the water tank and open the hot water tap to remove some water to depressurize the water tank.

3) Make sure that the unit has access to a drain, so that the condensate produced by the AirTap™ can escape. During periods of high humidity,
the level of condensate can be up to 1 quart per day.

4) On most electric (or gas) water heaters, the inlet and outlet connections consist of two ¾” nipples extending from the top of the tank. Disconnect only the HOT line (“H”) from the water heater. Using your pipe wrench, remove the ¾” nipple extending from the hot outlet port of the water heater.

The AirTap™ is now ready to be installed.
Make sure that you are using palm gloves and following safety procedures.

1) Locate the ¾” nipple supplied with the AirTap™. Apply a layer of Teflon tape to the threads on one end of the nipple into the hot water port of the water heater. Tighten the nipple with the pipe wrench with enough force to prevent leaking under normal operating pressure.

2) Attach the mounting bracket to this hot outlet nipple. Attach the other bracket, the forked mounting bracket, to the cold inlet nipple.

3) Now you can attach the AirTap™ to these brackets so that the unit rests on top of the existing water heater. Determine where the AirTap™ will be positioned on the brackets by locating the proper holes on the brackets. The AirTap™ should be positioned as close to the inlet and outlet nipples as possible for maximum stability. (For gas water heater installations, the AirTap™ should be at least 1” away from the outer edge of the vent pipe). Once this is determined, position the two mounting screws in the appropriate holes on the brackets.

4) Position the AirTap™ on the mounting brackets and secure both sides by tightening the nuts on the mounting screws provided.

5) Put Teflon tape on the ¾” nipple male thread and attach the ¾” Flange Adaptor to the ¾” nipple. Tighten the Flange Adaptor with your adjustable wrench with enough force to prevent leakage. Put Teflon tape to all the threads of the ‘Y’ Adaptor. Attach the ‘Y’ adaptor to the Flange Adaptor and tighten it using a pipe wrench.
 
6) Unwrap and carefully straighten the copper coil connected to the AirTap™. Insert the coil into the top of the Y adaptor pipe previously installed, holding the two lines together.
An initial jerk may be needed to push the tube. The tube will curl in the tank. Continue inserting the coil into the tank, but never try to force it in. If it gets stuck, gently give it a push until it continues into the tank. The thermostat bulb should be inserted at the end. Use extra care when you reach the thermostat bulb and make sure it is immersed along with the coil. Continue inserting until the entire coil is in the tank.

USE CAUTION during the immersion process to ensure that no crimping of the coil or thermostat capillary takes place, including the section from the insertion nipple to the back of the AirTap™. At no point should you allow the coil to curve with more than a 2” radius.

7) Apply the pipe joint compound to the threads on the exposed end of the outlet nipple previously installed. Screw the brass female adaptor onto the nipple and tighten securely. Tighten all adaptors.

8) Use a level on top of the AirTap™ to make sure that it is leveled in all directions, allowing the best drainage of the condensate. Use leveling screws near the end of the mounting brackets to make adjustments.

9) Now attach the drain hose to the AirTap™.

10) Ensure that the AirTap™ tips toward the side of the drain so that water can flow out of the system. Be careful, if the AirTap™ isn’t tipped enough to the side of the drain, you may have some flooding. Inspect the unit for a couple of days to make sure that the condensate water is not logging.

11) Find the copper tube that extends from the back of the AirTap™. Place the foam insulation pipe around this tube. You may also cover the hot outlet pipe coming out of the tank.

12) You can now reconnect the hot water line on the side, and turn on the cold water supply to the water heater. Once the air has escaped from the system, go ahead and turn off the faucet(s) that you had turned on.

13) This is a good time to check for leaks in the new connections.

14) You’re ready to plug the AirTap™ into an electrical outlet, and set the thermostat to 130’F. You may need to lower the temperature if you feel it is too hot. If the tank is completely filled with cold water, it may require more than 3 hours before the water reaches the desired temperature.

Maintenance
The AirTap™ is such a simple device that the only maintenance required is removing and cleaning the air filter, located on the back of the unit, once a year.

Another advantage of the AirTap™ is that while it harvests energy from the air, the unit will generate cool, dehumidified air expelled from the front of the unit, which can be great during those hot months. If you choose to take better advantage of this cool, dry air, you can capture and control it by ducting.
The AirTap™ is recommended to be installed indoors in a location where the surrounding temperature is above 35 degrees F.